A Guyanese Phagwah is sheer joy

Mar 15, 2014 Letters

DEAR EDITOR,
Phagwah or Holi is one of the more popular festivals in Guyana, where people of virtually all the ethnic groups and religious backgrounds partake in the festivities. I have very fond memories of the festival, and it was one the then youngsters looked forward to, presumably like those of today, because of the non-stop entertainment and unlimited food.
I think it is accurate to say that Phagwah can be described as the most joyous of Guyanese festivals, celebrated with much zeal and enthusiasm. People of all ages and ethnicities are boisterous and celebrate the festival with much fun, excitement and revelry.
Phagwah is a festival free from social norms bringing diverse people together. Coloured liquids or powders are showered on anyone, with the community merging into one big fraternity. There is no distinction of creed, race, caste and sex.
As a youngster I remember the celebration would begin after the burning of Holika – a bonfire symbolizing destruction of evil. Phagwah signifies the triumph of good over evil. Hence the burning of holika which represented evil and that was planted (with dried branches of trees and wood) amidst chanting of rituals and pooja, a month before its burning on a full moon.
During many of the ensuing nights, members of the chowtal groups in each village took turn singing chowtals and taans (folk singing) at each other’s home where delicacies and tea (or often rum) were served. The revelry and snacks attracted the youngsters. The intoxicants attracted the older the folks.
As Phagwah day approached, phagwah mania was all over the place, especially among the youth, who accompanied the adults on their nightly singing – for the treats of Indian snacks. For the youngsters, the festivity would begin on the last school day before Phagwah with a prayer service and a cultural variety concert. Then students would spray abeer or splash powder or water on each other. After school, students would throw each other in some dirty drain as part of the fun.
After the burning of Holika, on the full moon night, men would sing folk songs (chowtaal), accompanied by rhythmic beats of the indigenous drum. The celebration commenced with the splashing of water mixed with ash on each other after midnight. Then the chowtal groups would sing with the accompaniment of music for hours while consuming alcohol.
The revelry and singing would continue throughout the night until the mid-morning. Then the men would slowly begin their rhythmic tempo through the main street of the village. The group would often stop in people’s homes along the way and be entertained with delicacies or liquor or tea. Celebrants would throw water that was often mixed with mud or cow dung, or abeer on each other. Some of the celebrants would get thrown in dirty ravines or trenches or canals as part of the fun. By the mid morning, the “dirt” part of the celebration ends and participants clean up and get ready for the evening celebration which was more sobering.
In the late afternoon, celebrants, dressed in clean white clothing, make their way through the village and or to neighboring villages armed with a pitchkari or spray bottle with colourful abeer and talc powder “playing phagwah” with the whole village and beyond. Almost every home would be visited.
People danced to the rhythmic beats of the drums and sang Holi songs from Bollywood movies. They would exchange good wishes, sweets, cards and gifts. Hindus and non-Hindus, and visitors would partake in the delicacies (bara, gulgula, phulourie, bigany, mango chutney, potato ball, parsad, channa, dhal puri and alou curry, ghoja, kheer or sweet rice, among others prepared for the occasion. Food was always plentiful and the youths would have a feast of dainty dishes and or snacks and soft drinks.
Also, on Phagwah day, it is traditional for Hindus to distribute sweets or mitai and food to non-Hindus or those Hindus who could not celebrate Phagwah because of the recent death of a relative. I was often tasked to deliver foods and snacks to non-Hindus or those not celebrating the occasion and even to those celebrating it. And I would be rewarded with plenty of goodies that I shared with other youths. Oh we feasted and provided snacks to so many as part of our good deeds. What a joyous occasion!
May I use this occasion to wish all the readers a Happy Phagwah.
Vishnu Bisram

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A Guyanese Phagwah is sheer joy

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